Purpose:
This is a physical training drill that a) builds strength for climbing and b) can build resilience
Where: on a fingerboard
This drill requires a fingerboard with a variety of grips available e.g. a Beastmaker
When: at home
This is designed as a homework exercise that you ideally conduct at home.
NOTE: if conducting this at home, WARM UP THOROUGHLY
When: (if at the wall) during the Main Session
Note: it is possible to conduct repeaters at the climbing wall if you choose. However this will impact on your climbing sessions. If conducted in the wall, it MUST be completed during the Learning Window
The Drill:
This drill is very popular and can provide massive gains. It is important to be fresh to conduct repeaters and should be done ideally before an easy/rest day i.e. do not perform repeaters on the same day as or the day before a hard climbing session.
- First Set: Warm Up Thoroughly. Grasp some good holds and slowly lower yourself onto your fingers, progressively weighting your fingers before standing up again
- Second set: Good holds. Conduct one set on the best available holds
- Third–Fifth Set: Progressively more difficult holds.
- Offset set: you can complete sets with one good hold, one more difficult hold. In this case, ensure that half of the set has good hold with the left and difficult hold on the right, the second half of the set is the mirror image of these holds
- Your last set should be the last set you can complete in it’s entirety
Repeaters follow a simple pattern:
- One Rep = 7 seconds hang, 3 seconds pause
- One Set = 6 reps in this pattern: 1 straight arm; 1 arms at 90 degress; 1 full lock off; repeat
- Rest in between sets of 10 minutes
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that your finger strength increases and that you are able to both hold smaller holds and maintain ability to stay on the same holds for longer.
You may also find that you develop the ability to force yourself to cling on to holds for longer than you would before.