We’ve all arrived at the wall or the crag, chomping at the bit and desperate to get on that climb we saw last time. Perhaps you’ve been guilty – as i have – of jumping on that project straight away. But is this a productive way to set out your session? Chances are, getting on …
Special credit must go to Aled Oddy for his assistance in developing this model. PrinFrAp? What is that?! No, it’s not a new hipster Dutch brewery, PrinFrAp is possibly the best model with a terrible name you’ve ever heard of. It is an abbreviation (I think) of three points of a model that describes the …
PrinFrAp: Probably the Best Teaching Model in the World Read More »
There is often a big emphasis placed on physical training to improve climbing performance but I often feel it is overstated. Personally, I think there are usually much greater gains to be made from improving technique, tactics and mentality but there comes a point where pushing yourself physically is both beneficial and necessary. The problem …
It can potentially be the most controversial question or could be the simplest thing to answer. The depth in that answer can give waaaay more information to a coach than you could possible know. From ambiguity to discipline, indoors/outdoors to no answer at all, grab a piece of paper and answer this seemingly straightforward question: …
If you’re sat with a bunch of climbers and you fancy a good old debate, start talking about grades. Sure enough, within long, there’ll be at least a bit chat about whether Direct Route really gets E1, how the grades are harder in Yorkshire and everything is HVS, or something similar. Get the right group and …
I’m going to give you a phrase and I want to you to consider what images come to mind. Here’s the phrase: “Drop and give me twenty!” Thinking about push ups? Or some kind of similar physical training drill? Yeah that’s what wordreference.com came back with and it’s a popular idea. Typically thought of with …
The Problem With ‘Penalty Reps’ (Is All To Do With Skinner’s Operant Conditioning) Read More »
Purpose: To encourage you to not only look at your routes before you start but begin to anticipate the movements you’ll be doing once you start climbing Where: VERY easy routes This drill on incredibly easy routes with a very large number of holds When: during the Learning Window or Options Section This drill should …
Purpose: This is a physical training drill that a) builds strength for climbing and b) can build resilience Where: on a fingerboard This drill requires a fingerboard with a variety of grips available e.g. a Beastmaker When: at home This is designed as a homework exercise that you ideally conduct at home. NOTE: if conducting …
It’s pretty established that it’s very important to focus and concentrate when we’re rock climbing. On several levels, a lack of focus can prove disastrous for any chances of success; from failing on that project line by forgetting a crucial part of the sequence right the way through to safety critical aspects that lead to …
How Japanese Train Drivers Can Help You Become A Better Climber (Genuinely) Read More »
