Articles specifically written to target COACHES rather than climbers
A quick google search suggests that this as a phrase doesn’t exist so I’m nabbing it before anyone else does. It is possibly the single most extensively used technique in my coaching repertoire. In some ways, it is not new and is even now developing more and more alongside technology (more on this later). However …
Copy and Paste: A Definition of Replication Training Read More »
I’m sure we’ve all heard of ‘warming up’, how it’s really important and how it keeps us from getting hurt but I have it on good authority from a physiotherapist friend of mine that there is no conclusive academic research that states that warm ups prevent injury (I’m not making this up, check out McCrary, …
Are You Ready For This? Discussions on Warm Ups for Climbing Read More »
One of my local climbing centres is called the Beacon and there, you’ll find one of their senior staff called Gareth Pritchard. I have a lot of respect for Gareth, he’s a great bloke and very experienced. Yet occasionally, we do find ourselves locked in ardent debate; much like happened recently. Gareth is great for …
Take a look at this genuine review from a client from the summer of 2025: I’m always drinking tea when I’m working. Armed with one of my two flasks, or sometimes both, drinking tea at the wall has become part of the Prowess image. At face value, it may seem like a quirk; one of …
Let’s Have a Brew: Why Tea is a Secret Weapon in Coaching Read More »
Special credit must go to Aled Oddy for his assistance in developing this model. PrinFrAp? What is that?! No, it’s not a new hipster Dutch brewery, PrinFrAp is possibly the best model with a terrible name you’ve ever heard of. It is an abbreviation (I think) of three points of a model that describes the …
PrinFrAp: Probably the Best Teaching Model in the World Read More »
If you’re sat with a bunch of climbers and you fancy a good old debate, start talking about grades. Sure enough, within long, there’ll be at least a bit chat about whether Direct Route really gets E1, how the grades are harder in Yorkshire and everything is HVS, or something similar. Get the right group and …
I’m going to give you a phrase and I want to you to consider what images come to mind. Here’s the phrase: “Drop and give me twenty!” Thinking about push ups? Or some kind of similar physical training drill? Yeah that’s what wordreference.com came back with and it’s a popular idea. Typically thought of with …
The Problem With ‘Penalty Reps’ (Is All To Do With Skinner’s Operant Conditioning) Read More »
