Technical Performance

Eyes on the Prize: Attentional Focus in Climbing

I spend a lot of my time reading research on coaching, teaching, learning and various other related topics. Motivation, psychological aspects of coaching, I spent a lot of my Master’s degree sponging up as much as I could find and I’ve carried on as best I can since then. So when someone says something about …

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Copy and Paste: A Definition of Replication Training

A quick google search suggests that this as a phrase doesn’t exist so I’m nabbing it before anyone else does. It is possibly the single most extensively used technique in my coaching repertoire. In some ways, it is not new and is even now developing more and more alongside technology (more on this later). However …

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PrinFrAp: Probably the Best Teaching Model in the World

Special credit must go to Aled Oddy for his assistance in developing this model. PrinFrAp? What is that?! No, it’s not a new hipster Dutch brewery, PrinFrAp is possibly the best model with a terrible name you’ve ever heard of. It is an abbreviation (I think) of three points of a model that describes the …

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