Purpose:
To encourage you to a) make strong, fast decisions that benefit you and b) begin to hone your knowledge of your own strengths and weaknesses
Where: wherever you like but bouldering wall recommended
This drill can be done in any environment on any hold types. You could do this on routes but honestly, it’s probably better done on the bouldering wall.
When: you can run this any time but I’d generally suggest Options
Using this drill to finish off any energy you’ve got left is a good option but you could stick it in any part of the session
The Drill:
You will need a friend for this drill, ideally one climbing around a similar level to you.
- You choose any climb you like and climb it to the top. Your partner then has to complete the same route
- Now your partner chooses any climb they like and climbs to the top. You must then climb the same route
- Every time one climber fails to repeat a completed climb, the lead climber gets one point
- If neither climber can complete the route, or if both climbers complete the route, neither receives a point.
- Minimal rest should be taken in between climbs. This is about making fast decisions
- Any other rules (i.e. repeating the same climb, max/min grade, etc.) should be decided between you before starting the drill/battle
Tactical Tips
- Play to your strengths. Select climbs that match your preferred hold type, wall angle, movement pattern, etc. or if you are particularly good at endurance, throw in loads of easy climbs to tire your partner
- Aim for your partner’s weaknesses. If you know your partner isn’t great at technical moves, maybe aim for the slab! Or if they’re not great at slopers, can you hit up a bit slopey climb?
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that you become better at deciding which climb to target next when given complete scope of the wall