Purpose:
This is a physical training drill that a) builds strength for climbing and b) can build resilience
Where: floor based
This drill is completed on the floor. You will need an edge block and a resistance band of some desscription
When: at home
This is designed as a homework exercise that you ideally conduct at home.
NOTE: if conducting this at home, WARM UP THOROUGHLY
When: (if at the wall) during the Main Session
Note: it is possible to conduct finger curls at the climbing wall if you choose, potentially as a warm up but ONLY if it feels easy enough
The Drill:
This drill is a variation on using a fingerboard. Remember to conduct on both sides of the body, so with each hand in turn
- Step One: feed the resistance band through the cord of your block, or connect with a karabiner. Stand on the band with the foot on the same side as the hand doing the work
- Step Two: place fingers in the block in an open hand/drag position. There should be light tension on the block (adjust your foot as needed)
- Step Three: curl the fingers up until they become a closed crimp position i.e until thumb is over the nail of the index finger. There should be reasonable tension in the band now
- Step Four: slowly release the tension to come back into the drag position
There is huge variety available here, including the grip type, strength of band and body position. Begin on the biggest hold, progress to smaller holds as you go.
- One Rep = one curl
- One Set = 6 reps in this pattern
- Rest in between sets of 5 minutes
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that your finger strength increases