Drill: HOT Holds

Purpose:

To consciously consider, and then feel, efficient ways to pull/push on holds

Where: wherever you like

This drill utilises several areas of the climbing wall. Begin on the traverse wall at ground level (or across the bottom of a roped wall), then move on to the bouldering wall, before finishing on top rope/autobelay

When: during the Warm Up and Learning Window

We can utilise our warm up for the start of this drill, before building the difficulty in the Learning Window

The Drill:

This drill involves two aspects, completed in multiple settings:

  1. Visual: look at the holds and ask yourself “what clock number does each hold pull towards to be as efficient as possible?” (typically this is 90 degress to the surface of the hold)
  2. Haptic: add in the ‘feel’ by grasping the hold and moving your body around to feel the best direction

Each stage should be done in progressively more challenging environments:

  1. Begin on the traverse wall with your feet on the ground, moving side to side
  2. Now move to the bouldering wall and complete progressively more challenging problems
  3. Finally, attempt this on top rope/auto belay trying to look at holds progressively higher up the wall as best you can

Complete in this order: 1a, 1b, 2a, 2b, 3a, 3b

The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?

Over time, you should find that when you grasp a hold on the wall, you naturally move yourself around to make it as positive as it can be