Drill: Imaginary Add-A-Move

Purpose:

To encourage you to explore movement patterns on the floor, build visualisation skills and gently work muscles.

[Please note: this is possibly the most embarrassing drill I’ve created and can make anyone feel slightly self-conscious. Works well if you’re on your own, though, or if you simply don’t care what other people think]

Where: on the floor

This drill is explicitly done lying on your back on the floor

When: any time

This can be done absolutely any time, as it only takes a few minutes and requires no climbs

The Drill:

This drill was developed from seeing Adam Ondra’s attempts to flash Silence with his osteopath Klaus Isele. Video here to see what I mean

  • Lie flat on the floor with your eyes closed and your limbs limber
  • Select a limb and imagine moving it towards a hold. This can be any hold in any position. Now move your limb to the position you’ve imagined it to be and engage the relevant muscles
  • While keeping those muscles tense, select the next limb and move it in the same way as before
  • Continue to create a route, adding moves in the same way as typical Add-A-Move
  • Explore with different movement patterns, keeping some simple and making others as complex as you can

Variation: with a group of you, it is possible you take it in turns to describe the next move to the group who all complete the same new move

The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?

Over time, you should find that you develop the ability to visualise moves without actually needing to be on the wall

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