Purpose:
To begin to feel the sensation of falling in a perceived safe environment, building on previous experiences on top rope. This is the first stage on developing the ability to take full lead falls
Where: top ropes, slightly overhanging wall
This drill is conducted on top ropes and therefore, we must select somewhere with either a top-rope in situ or somewhere we can place a top rope safely.
The wall should be slightly overhanging to avoid hitting holds or panels while falling. However it should not overhang so much that we cannot grab back onto the wall after each fall.
When: during the Learning Window or Options
This drill does not rely on the routes or holds on the wall. The only condition is that you are able to climb without working very hard.
This can be done at the end of the session but BE CAUTIOUS as both physical and mental fatigue are both still fatigue. Being physically tired may result in the mental strain becoming a bit too much.
The Drill:
[Note: consider using a bowline for this drill but ONLY if you are 100% sure if your proficiency, remembering that YOU MUST use a stopper knot]
- Tie in to a top rope and have your belayer belay you to fourth clip (approx. 6m from the ground) and allow you to rest on the rope.
- Pull on to the wall and let yourself slump back onto the rope. The belayer SHOULD NOT pay out or take in ANY slack during this process.
- Pull on to the wall, complete one move and let go, slumping back to roughly the same position
- Repeatedly pull on to the wall and climb progressively higher, taking larger and larger falls, decided purely by the climber
IMPORTANT POINTS: it is far more important that you feel in control during this episode of fall practice. Smiles and laughter and a good sign. If you are feeling overwhelmed, reduce the size of the fall. The last fall should be totally comfortable.
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that you are more comfortable letting go of the wall without a tight rope and that you are not overwhelmed by the sensation of falling.
This is a stepping stone to taking lead falls and any decisions on the height of the fall should be made by the climber alone.