Drill: Must, Mustn’t, Maybe (Contrast Drills)

Purpose:

To encourage you to see more detail in how you climb and to see how small changes have a big effect on the climbing overall

Where: wherever you like

This drill can be done in any environment on any hold types. That means, you can select holds/wall angles that suit you to allow a little more enjoyment.

You may find it easier to complete this drill on holds that are a little harder to hold, though it can be done on super easy climbs

When: during the Learning Window

Climbs should be easy enough to allow thought process but not so easy as the drill feels contrived.

The Drill:

Before each climb, think of a constraint to the way you climb. Examples include: using thumbs; using front three/back three finers; engaging scapula. Complete three laps on each climb:

  • First lap: you MUST apply the constraint for each move e.g. you MUST use your thumbs on every hold
  • Second lap: you MUSTN’T apply the constraint for each move e.g. you MUSTN’T use your thumbs on every hold
  • Third lap: you MAY CHOOSE whether you apply the constraint, depending on the move e.g. you maybe want to use you thumbs but don’t have to if you prefer not to

The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?

Over time, you should find that not only do you start to become creative in thinking about the smaller details of your movement, you will also start to see what each constraint you can think of does to the way you move on the wall