Purpose:
To encourage you to 1) isolate specific parts of moves on which you are struggling and 2) build confidence taking falls
Where: wherever you like
This drill can be done in any environment on any hold types. It’s not ideal on slabs but still works.
However it is best done on moves on which you are currently failing.
When: any section post Warm Up
As you’ll need climbs that you’re failing on, you’ll need to be properly warmed up. Other than that, you can complete this short drill either on your project in the main or by coming back to the move in isolation during the Window or Options
The Drill:
For this drill, you will need to find a move that you currently cannot quite complete but that you are close to. Typically, any such move will be somewhat dynamic but it doesn’t have to be
- Stage 1: set yourself up for the move, go for the target hold but DO NOT TRY AND LATCH THE HOLD. Instead, wave over the top of the hold before taking the fall
- Stage 2: once you are comfortable in stage 1, repeat the exercise but this time, tap the target hold before taking the fall
- Stage 3: once you are comfortable in stage 2, repeat the exercise but this time, stroke the target hold before taking the hold
- Stage 4: once you are comfortable in stage 3, repeat the exercise but not it is time to engage with the target hold and hopefully, not fall off
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that you begin to better isolate and develop specific movements, while also building confidence in your ability to take a fall and thus, not distract you from the move