Purpose:
To encourage you to target specific routes on lead and have tactics to employ accordingly
Where: wherever you like
This drill in designed to be completed on lead climbs.
It can be done in any environment on any hold types.
When: first, BEFORE you start then during the Main
The first part of this drill MUST be completed before you start. You will then build up to completing the drill in the Main
The Drill:
Brief explanation of what the drill will entail. Then, typically, the drill will evolve over time, so use bullets/lists to lay out the stages to go through
- Before you begin: look around the wall and select a target route for your session; something you’re going to find hard
- For your warm up: climb the easiest climb (including rainbow) on the same line on lead
Optional: consider feeling/cleaning the holds on the way back down - Next stage: second/top rope (depending on the angle of the wall) the target climb. Remember this is NOT trying to complete it in one go, this is preparation
- Final stage: attempt the redpoint effort on the target climb
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that you begin to develop better redpointing skills and move away from the idea of climbing every route ground up