Purpose:
To develop your ability to climb faster (and understand why and when)
Where: wherever you like
This drill can be done in any environment on any hold types but is generally best done on routes. These can be auto belay, top rope or lead but if you are leading, be careful to maintain safe practice throughout
When: during the Learning Window
Climbs should be easy enough to allow thought process but not so easy as the drill feels contrived.
The Drill:
On your chosen climb, you will complete three laps of the same climb.
- First lap: climb at your normal pace. Time your ascent
- Second lap: repeat the climb but try and bring the time down a little. Time your ascent
- Third lap: repeat the climb again but as fast as you can but without falling off. Time your ascent
It is up to you to decide whether failed attempts (fell off before the top) count or not but obviously, the time won’t translate
After each attempt, ask yourself: what is changing in the way I move?; what advantages have I found to moving faster?; why might I wish to climb a little slower?
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that you develop the ability to move faster on the wall.
Gold standard would be that you begin to also understand the difference (advantages and disadvantages) of moving faster and can then apply each one at the right time.