Purpose:
To continue to climb until actually completely fatigued
Where: wherever you like
This drill can be done in any environment on any hold types.
It is recommended that you move around the wall as much as possible, adding as much variety as possible. Therefore, begin on climbs that do not suit and move on to ones that do afterwards
When: during the Options Section
At this point in your session, you should’ve finished with the main purpose of your session and be coming back down the grades
The Drill:
Begin on climbs two grades below the grade in the Main part of your session (e.g. for a project 7a climber, begin on 6c)
- attempt any given climb two grades below max (e.g. 6c)
- if you succeed on this grade, try another climb at the same grade (e.g. another 6c)
- if you fail on this grade, drop to the next grade down (e.g. 6b+)
DO NOT REST IN BETWEEN CLIMBS. This is intended to be continuous climbing. Continue until the grade drops to easy climbs
VAriation: you can complete this drill with routes, perhaps on an auto belay, although I would recommend sticking to the same route doing laps
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that your fitness levels increase and your ability to have longer sessions increases