Purpose:
Two reasons: one to increase precision when reaching for holds and increasing ‘proprioception’; and to increase attention on the holds that we are grasping
[Please note: for this drill, you will need to have a climbing hold with you]
Where/When: any time, anywhere, including away from the wall
This is designed as a homework exercise that you can practice anywhere; including at home.
The Drill:
Place a climbing hold on the table in front of you. There are two exercises:
- While sitting still, reach forward and try and grasp the hold BUT try to ensure this is one smooth motion and that we would not need to readjust if we were actually using this on a climb
VARIANT: use both hands; change where the hold is on the table; change your body position compared to the hold; add in other variation - Look closely at the hold and call out/pay attention to all of the small details (ideally recording them somewhere). Now close your eyes/look away for a moment before turning back to the hold again. See if you can see any further detail to the hold, spot anything you didn’t see the first time. Repeat as needed
VARIANT: reach forward and grasp the hold, noticing all the detail in how it feels. Repeat the exercise but add more detail into the feel of the hold
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that you
- add in precision in the reach when you go for a hold on, making a more precise ‘deadpoint’
- have a much greater appreciation of how a hold feels, adding in further precision to your climbing. You may also find that this helps with concentration when climbing