Purpose:
To encourage you to add an element of refinement to your climbing.
Note: this drill was named after Louis Parkinson, after I’d observed him running this drill in a session
Where: wherever you like
This drill can be done in any environment on any hold types but is generally best done on boulder problems
When: during the Learning Window
Climbs should be easy enough to allow thought process but not so easy as the drill feels contrived.
The Drill:
On your chosen climb, you will complete three laps of the same climb.
- First lap: climb as it comes
- Second lap: slightly refined
- Third lap: flawless, in perfect style
Remember here you are looking primarily at your technique (although it is possible to find gains in other areas, that is not the purpose here). So consider things like: the way you’re grasping the holds; precision in your footwork; effective flight paths; etc.
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that the changes you make on the second and third laps become smaller and more subtle. You should also find that your reflections on your climbs improve too