Purpose:
To enable you to be able to safely and effectively warm up when the only available option is your project line
WARNING: this particular exercise may carry with it above-average risk. Discretion on whether you are fully warmed up by the individual on that given day is strongly advised
Where: on your project line
This drill specifically targets the time when the only activity available is your project line and therefore, should be practiced on climbs at the top of your ability from the start
When: during the Warm Up
While this is completed on your project, this exercise constitutes your warm up section of the session, potentially covering the Learning Window too
The Drill:
On arrival at your climbing wall/crag, identify your target route/problem for the day. This should be a project grade at the higher end of your ability.
Phase One: Hang Positions
- Select the best pair of handholds on the climb at ground level.
- Step off the floor, finding the optimum position, holding this for a few seconds. Repeat as necessary
- Find the next-best pair of handholds and repeat the process
- Continue with every available combination of handholds
Phase Two: Incomplete Moves
- Return to your first pair of holds. Grasp the position and throw for the next handhold. [Caution: you may not wish to engage on the target hold yet, depending on the size of the next hold. Discretion is advised]
- Continue the exercise on progressively poorer holds until you have completed all available moves in isolation
Phase Three: Move Combinations
- Once you have completed each move in isolation, begin to combine moves together
- Select several starting points and complete 3 or 4 moves in sequence
Phase Four: 7/10 Ground Up Efforts
- Now start at the beginning of the climb and attempt the climb ground up
- HOWEVER limit yourself to only using 70% effort
- If you fail on a move – that is not a bad thing – pull back on in the same place and continue
The Outcome: How do you know when it’s working?
Over time, you should find that you are able to safely and successfully warm up for your session without the NEED for both easy climbs and additional equipment.
However, please note that this exercise should be used sparingly; when it is needed rather than it becoming a go-to option.