When my two children were in primary school, I had one rule: No Fun Allowed! And yet, whenever I barked this at them, one hard word at a time, they would giggle like crazy. It was one of our most treasured games for a long time. It was, to all intents and purposes, us having …
No Fun Allowed! In What World Would We Want to Enjoy Ourselves Read More »
This concept and article were written in collaboration with Manchester-based climbing coach Adam from Underhang Climbing. My thanks go out to Adam for his help It’s Christmas this week – or, if you’re reading any other time of the year, it’s only ever “just around the corner” – and a time for traditions. Everyone has …
A CUP Full of Success: Manipulating ‘Unit Bias’ to Our Advantage Read More »
Many years back, I developed something for myself to enhance my climbing; something that worked ridiculously well. And all it cost me was the price of a whiteboard. It became known as The List. Now that I’m a pro coach, I can completely see where I was coming from and why it is so useful, …
The List: A Solid Method of Always Having a Project to Hand Read More »
We’ve all arrived at the wall or the crag, chomping at the bit and desperate to get on that climb we saw last time. Perhaps you’ve been guilty – as i have – of jumping on that project straight away. But is this a productive way to set out your session? Chances are, getting on …
Special credit must go to Aled Oddy for his assistance in developing this model. PrinFrAp? What is that?! No, it’s not a new hipster Dutch brewery, PrinFrAp is possibly the best model with a terrible name you’ve ever heard of. It is an abbreviation (I think) of three points of a model that describes the …
PrinFrAp: Probably the Best Teaching Model in the World Read More »
It can potentially be the most controversial question or could be the simplest thing to answer. The depth in that answer can give waaaay more information to a coach than you could possible know. From ambiguity to discipline, indoors/outdoors to no answer at all, grab a piece of paper and answer this seemingly straightforward question: …
