Clearly, you’re quite a psyched climber and I would guess, would quite like to train a bit more than you do. But I’m also guessing that if you manage to get chance to get to the wall, you’d quite like to spend that time climbing and not mucking about with dumbbells and pull up bars. …
Foundation Strength: the Basis to Allow Us to Get Climbing Strong Read More »
It is so tempting, when approaching physical training in climbing, to think more is, well, more. Train more, climb more, achieve more. But everything has it’s breaking point. Injury is the evil to the good of training. Pick whichever good and bad metaphors you like here, the fact is that training is great up to …
Train-Cap: A Model to Guide Training and Reduce Overuse-Injury Risk Read More »
Magazines, websites and other media outlets are always keen to advocate a nice, effective and simple workout for their readers to follow; after all, trying to detail a long and complicated training plan is more than a little tricky within a thousand words. So when they come across something as simple and effective as HIIT, …
Short and Sharp for the Sharp End? Discussions on HIIT Training for Climbers Read More »
Marshmallows. Generally considered yummy (sorry vegetarians). So yummy in fact, that they were used, back in 1970 led my social scientist Walter Mischel, in one of the most famous studies on human behaviour of the twentieth century: the Stanford Marshmallow Experiment. We’ll come on to the details of the experiment, suffice it to say that …
Can We Test For Injury With Marshmallows?! No, But They Can Be Useful Read More »
I was having a really bad day at home once, grumbling and complaining and claiming the whole world was against me. Then Rosie, my eldest daughter, turned to me and said “There is not one day in your life”. It completely stunned me; instantly rendering me speechless and defenseless. Because she’s right: today might be …
Pick and Choose: Using Training Modalities to Structure Your Sessions Read More »
There is often a big emphasis placed on physical training to improve climbing performance but I often feel it is overstated. Personally, I think there are usually much greater gains to be made from improving technique, tactics and mentality but there comes a point where pushing yourself physically is both beneficial and necessary. The problem …
I’m going to give you a phrase and I want to you to consider what images come to mind. Here’s the phrase: “Drop and give me twenty!” Thinking about push ups? Or some kind of similar physical training drill? Yeah that’s what wordreference.com came back with and it’s a popular idea. Typically thought of with …
The Problem With ‘Penalty Reps’ (Is All To Do With Skinner’s Operant Conditioning) Read More »
