Sneaking in a last minute session, either at the crag or at the wall, can be excellent and can feel very rewarding but in my experience, while they’re not to be sniffed at, I don’t tend to find they’re my best sessions. For me, my best sessions are ones that I can build up to …
The Early Bird Catches the Send: The Concept of Pre-Climbing Read More »
I’m sure we’ve all heard of ‘warming up’, how it’s really important and how it keeps us from getting hurt but I have it on good authority from a physiotherapist friend of mine that there is no conclusive academic research that states that warm ups prevent injury (I’m not making this up, check out McCrary, …
Are You Ready For This? Discussions on Warm Ups for Climbing Read More »
One of my local climbing centres is called the Beacon and there, you’ll find one of their senior staff called Gareth Pritchard. I have a lot of respect for Gareth, he’s a great bloke and very experienced. Yet occasionally, we do find ourselves locked in ardent debate; much like happened recently. Gareth is great for …
This concept and article were written in collaboration with Manchester-based climbing coach Adam from Underhang Climbing. My thanks go out to Adam for his help It’s Christmas this week – or, if you’re reading any other time of the year, it’s only ever “just around the corner” – and a time for traditions. Everyone has …
A CUP Full of Success: Manipulating ‘Unit Bias’ to Our Advantage Read More »
We’ve all arrived at the wall or the crag, chomping at the bit and desperate to get on that climb we saw last time. Perhaps you’ve been guilty – as i have – of jumping on that project straight away. But is this a productive way to set out your session? Chances are, getting on …
There is often a big emphasis placed on physical training to improve climbing performance but I often feel it is overstated. Personally, I think there are usually much greater gains to be made from improving technique, tactics and mentality but there comes a point where pushing yourself physically is both beneficial and necessary. The problem …
I’m going to give you a phrase and I want to you to consider what images come to mind. Here’s the phrase: “Drop and give me twenty!” Thinking about push ups? Or some kind of similar physical training drill? Yeah that’s what wordreference.com came back with and it’s a popular idea. Typically thought of with …
The Problem With ‘Penalty Reps’ (Is All To Do With Skinner’s Operant Conditioning) Read More »
